Skin Boosters Explained: Profhilo, Polynucleotides, babyGLOW and NCTF Compared

"Skin booster" is one of the most searched terms in aesthetics, and one of the most confusing. There are now so many products, each with its own name and promises, that it's hard to know where to start.

In this article, I'll explain what skin boosters are, how the four I offer in my clinic differ, and how to think about which might suit you.

What are skin boosters?

Skin boosters are injectable treatments that improve the quality of your skin rather than its shape. They work on hydration, texture, elasticity and that hard-to-define "glow".

The easiest way to understand them is to compare them with dermal fillers:

• Dermal fillers add volume and can change the contours of your face, such as your cheeks, lips or jawline.
• Skin boosters don't add noticeable volume or change your features. Your skin simply looks healthier, smoother and more rested.

Most skin boosters are given as a short course of treatments, and results build gradually over several weeks.

Profhilo

What it is: a highly concentrated hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a substance your skin makes naturally; it holds water and keeps skin plump. We make less of it as we age.

How it works: after injection, Profhilo spreads gently beneath the skin, hydrating it deeply and encouraging it to produce its own collagen and elastin.

Often chosen for: overall dehydration, crepey or slightly lax skin, and areas such as the face, neck, décolleté and hands.

Course: 2 treatments, one month apart, with results usually seen around 2 weeks after the second. Maintenance treatments are typically every 4 to 6 months.

Profhilo is often a good starting point if your main concern is skin that looks tired, thin or dehydrated across a wider area.

Polynucleotides

What they are: purified fragments of DNA, usually derived from salmon or trout.

How they work: polynucleotides encourage the skin to repair and renew itself, gradually improving elasticity, hydration and texture.

Often chosen for: the delicate skin under the eyes, as well as overall skin quality on the face and neck.

Course: 3 to 4 treatments, 3 weeks apart, usually repeated twice a year. Most people notice a first improvement after the second treatment, with full results 3 to 4 weeks after the last.

Worth knowing: because they're fish-derived, polynucleotides aren't suitable if you have a fish allergy. If you follow a vegetarian or vegan lifestyle, it's worth bearing in mind when deciding whether they're right for you.

babyGLOW™

What it is: a treatment by Teoxane using tiny injections of a light hyaluronic acid (Redensity 1) across the mid-face.

How it works: the light hyaluronic acid softens shadows and adds a subtle, fresh brightness to the cheek area, without the fullness of a filler.

Often chosen for: a tired-looking mid-face, and anyone wanting a little more radiance around the cheeks.

Course: 2 treatments, 4 weeks apart, with maintenance every 4 to 6 months.

NCTF

What it is: hyaluronic acid combined with a blend of vitamins, amino acids, minerals and antioxidants.

How it works: it restores hydration and supports skin that looks dull or tired, improving brightness and suppleness.

Often chosen for: dull, tired or dehydrated skin, and as a gentle introduction to skin boosters.

Course: 3 treatments, 4 weeks apart.

At a glance

Which one is right for you?

There's no single "best" skin booster. The right choice depends on your skin, what you'd like to improve, and sometimes practical things such as how many appointments you can fit in. As a rough guide:

• if your skin feels dehydrated or crepey across a wider area, Profhilo is often a good fit
• if your main concern is the under-eye area, polynucleotides are often considered
• if you'd like more brightness around the cheeks, babyGLOW may suit you
• if your skin simply looks dull and tired, NCTF can be a gentle place to start

Skin boosters can also be combined with each other, or with treatments such as micro-needling, over time. A consultation is the best way to work out what makes sense for you.

What to expect

Treatment usually takes up to an hour, and numbing cream can be used. Small bumps at the injection points are normal and usually settle within a day or two. Most people return to their normal activities straight away.

As with any injectable treatment, there are some risks. Redness, swelling, tenderness and bruising are common and usually settle within a few days. Rarer risks include infection, lumps that don't settle and allergic reactions. Very rarely, a product can block a blood vessel, which needs urgent treatment. This is one of the reasons it matters who treats you, and why your practitioner should explain all of this at your consultation.

A final word

Skin boosters work best when they're chosen for your skin, not because a product is popular. At your consultation, I'll look at your skin, talk through what you'd like to change, and recommend the option that suits you, or tell you honestly if a skin booster isn't the right choice.

If you'd like to find out more, you can book a consultation at my clinic at 10 Harley Street, London, or message me on WhatsApp on 07974 345 457. You can also read more on my skin boosters page.

Libbie Wallace, NMC Registered Nurse and Independent Nurse Prescriber, MSc Aesthetic Medicine